Quite the Conundrum


We arrived at the Conundrum Creek trail head ready for a hike, luckily because this hike was no joke. We began the hike which was easy enough. There were awesome views and wildflowers on a trail that was similar to rolling hills in the mountains. We knew the hike was going to be long at 17 miles round trip but we had no idea as to the difficulty of the hike. The main hurdle began with the historic amount of snow this winter. The snow was packed so high that due to weight all the bridges collapsed. This was such a problem because at 11,000 feet with fresh snow melt the water is more than cold, it is hypothermic. We first went through a field which was pleasant and then through a forest of birch trees. Walking through this area was one of my favorite areas of the hike because not only did it offer shade of some sort but peaking at mountain from between birch trees is quite the view. It is something I recommend everyone to do at least once. There was one mountain in particular that kept grabbing our attention mostly because of the sheer magnitude. Not only was it tall but it was mostly topped with snow still so the contrast of rock, snow and trees was lovely to look at. the hike was mostly straight forward so we were usually walking toward or just to the right of this mountain, but for a long time it never seemed to get any closer. At just after two miles we came to the first major river crossing. This water is moving fast. I mean fast enough to knock you down and carry you with the current. The swift current was shadowed by the shivering temperature of the water. I have never felt water that cold that is until the next river crossing. The bridge was completely out but someone had placed a rope connected by two trees to offer a sort of stabling devise for the crossing. This is the first crossing -
I believe a boy must have made this rope hand rail because it was a bit high for me and was hard for me to reach and concentrate on crossing, but we both made it to the other side. This was good because we were able to continue with the hike but the other side of that coin is now if we were to turn back we had to do that crossing all over again which was not a happy thought. I shrieked when my feet first touched the icy water and my breathing quickened about half way but at that point with Brad already crossing and coming back in to offer me a hand with the rope turning around was not an option. Once we were on the opposite shore we were both hunched over looking at our red toes and trying to promote circulation. We darted through shadows trying to stand in sunny patches to warm our legs. The rushing water reached all the way to my hips. We were bummed to notice where we stood was sort of an island and we still had some more freezing water to cross, but this water was slower and only slightly above ankle deep. We trucked forward in our Chacos and finally on dry land we changed back into our hiking boots. I am thankful that we had the foresight to bring both the Chacos for the water and the hiking boots for the rest of the hike considering how steep and rocky some portions were not to mention the snow Chacos would have been a poor choice for certain portions. Once on the other side warming in the sun we figured the worst must be over so we happily continued. We were not disappointed for there were awesome wildflowers of all sorts of heights and colors and a handful of dry dead root systems that look so pretty with wildflowers sprouting all around them. Most of the elevation gain was gradual. This is not to say we did not feel it and that it did not wear on us some but it was mostly pleasant. We then reached the frozen tundra portion of the hike. We literally had to cross a foothill of snow. Leading with our hiking sticks for support we stepped into the snow in the middle of July. There were parts covered with a red bacteria that was pretty crazy having snow in July as a niche. Once we slipped down the far side of the snow a rock pile led us in the right direction as they usually do. following the trail there were many smaller river crossings that required balance and fancy footwork but that were not scary or challenging. Then we crossed a bend and there before us was the scariest river crossing I have seen. There were remnants of a bridge but not only was it shifted from the trail it was also mostly under the white water jutting up at a forty-five degree angle on the far side of the bank. Below is the second river crossing -


This was at mile marker 6 so we had been on the trail for some time and felt committed. Brad went first very slowly and although he did struggle with the current at one point he managed to make it look easy. It was not easy. In I went with my pack on and my walking sticks for balance thinking I would just mossy on through it. I hit the rapids and the water was so cold that I immediately felt numb and it took my breath away. I nearly lost my footing and went down but I managed to make it to the snapped log bridge and steady myself. getting up on the bridge was another story and I began to freak out. Without realizing it I was panting and whimpering. Brad was encouraging on the other end with an outstretched hand. i inched my way towards him on the wet logs being sprayed by water hitting the logs and imagining them finally giving in to the current and taking me away with them to the drop downstream. After what seemed like forever I was finally on solid ground and at this point I was really stuck. We had already done two of the three major river crossings and I did not want to do another one. So my options at this point were to move on and do one more (knowing that means I would have to do all of them the following day) or we could turn back now (this would mean I would immediately have to relive that second crossing. After getting my breath and cursing the Google search that lead me to discovering these hot springs we knew there was only one option. Go to the top and enjoy the reward for crossing the freezing river over and over again. So onward and upward. Although the second crossing was the scariest and the worst I had a harder time with the third. There was a log along most of the length of this crossing. This could be good for stability for it was too narrow and stubbly to walk across. This crossing was not only the longest but the sun had already sunk behind the mountains. We had plenty of daylight left but the heat from the sun was swapped for the shade. This made the water seem colder because there was no direct sunlight to hit your legs upon removal from the stream. I noticed here more than at the other crossings the numbing effect of icy water. After beginning the crossing I got swept by the current against the log that I thought would offer support. I knew my legs were against the log but I could not feel them. The sensation of that was so strange and I couldn't help but to wonder if I had broken my legs or if I was scrapping them badly while they were tangled in roots. I was able to free myself slowly trying to avoid injury and get a little distance form the log. It seemed to take forever to cross the stream but we made it and danced around the other end partly to get warm and partly because we knew it was the last of the major river crossings. As most hikes are the last mile or so is usually the steepest and trickiest. There were a few more sketchy river crossings but we were able to mostly walk along rocks and logs. Up up and up. The mountain that seemed to loom in the distance was now beside us and soon we were past it climbing a ridge. We finally saw a sign for camping and knew we were close. We set up camp and made a much deserved dinner of pad thai! The moon was already in the sky when we finally made the last trek to the hot springs. We were greeted by another broken bridge and an unexpected river crossing. This was better because although the water was fast this bridge was mostly intact it was just damaged. Carefully we were able to get to the other side after being misted by the freezing water on an already cold Colorado night. What we found at the top was worth all this. There were natural hot springs with a tub made of rock and mud. We settled in and soaked in the hot springs letting the water sooth our backs and legs. There were a few people in the tubs but with the bridges out there were far fewer than expected. We were glad for the quiet. The moon was fairly bright lighting the mountains just enough to highlight the snow and offer a brilliant backdrop while not drowning out the stars. There were so many stars and the night was dark enough to see the Milky Way and a satellite. I was lucky enough to see a shooting star from the conundrum hot springs on top of a mountain! The only bad part of the hot springs was getting out. We hung out floating trying to chase warmer water bubbles. Finally we faced to cold in order to sleep which we were both looking forward to after the hike. Although it was really cold out and slightly windy. The tubs were so warming that the crisp cold air was welcome at first. We shivered our selves to sleep, but we slept well. Upon waking we made to short hike back to the springs and started the day off right, with a soak in the tubs. We talked with a few Colorado locals who come up Conundrum multiple times a year and one gentleman stated that he had never seen the bridges out. Although the day time view was not as breathtaking as the moonlight view it was still spectacular. We wished we would have allowed at least two night at the springs to make the hike up and back seem worth it, but what can you do hindsight is always 20/20 and now we know! In my minds eye I can so clearly see the view we saw from the springs at night. It was so nice to be so sore and sit holding hands in the most beautiful jacuzzi you can imagine. We knew we had a full day of hiking to come so we soaked for over an hour and decided to make lunch and be on our way. The water must have been really high when we crossed the day before because most of the water crossing accounts we were told did not seem to match what we saw. Luckily the water level seemed to be halved over night and the crossings the next day, although still uncomfortable, unsafe and cold were much more manageable than the had been just the day before. The sun was also out for the entire trip which helped and also made the mountainside views seem brighter and more colorful. The hike back was pretty nice. The last strecth was hard because we were tried and our backpacks were weighing us down. We made more time to look around and enjoy the hike on the way back and we knew what to expect so that helped. This hike was ranked moderate and all I have to say to that is - Moderate my ass... it was hard. I suppose with the bridges intact it would be moderate but even then it is a 3,000 elevation gain and a 17 mile trip. The treat at the end makes you forget all the uncomfortable steps along the way. The views that you take away from all along the hike erase the aches from the pack. Had I known in advance the nature of the river crossings I would have reevaluated whether I would go on that hike. In retrospect I am glad we did it because we made it out safely and it was not only an adventure but the hot springs are one of the most wonderful things I have ever and would ever hope to see. I definitely want to come back I just do not know if I will come again without the bridges being up and running. The scenery was awesome from start to finish and the streams were so clear (where there were not rushing rapids) that you could see details of every rock and branch that lay in the water. This is a beautiful hike and one we will always remember.

This is where we were lucky enough to soak -

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hey Rebekah,

When we do our cross county trip- WE ARE NOT DOING THIS HIKE. I got all that I wanted or actually all that I can handle form your description here.

Thanks,
Jessica

Anonymous said...

Rebekah,

You take my breath away just reading this - I am glad I was NOT a little bird watching you cross that second river - my goodness - ten points for bravery or ?

Love you
McMom

Tree Hugging in Boone

Tree Hugging in Boone